Jay Scott Outdoors: Elk Hunting-How to Cape a Bull Elk Video

Friend Jay Scott posted one of the best two-part videos on caping a bull elk that you can find on YouTube.  If you follow what we talk about and teach in the Elk Module, hopefully you'll need THESE videos as well!  Good Luck this season!!!

Jay Scott Outdoors: Elk Hunting-How to Cape a Bull Elk Video

How to buy your first bow

Working at a Pro Shop, I'm able to introduce many new archers to our sport. They come from all walks of life and backgrounds. From guys and gals who are looking to join family or friends on their next hunt, or that developed an interest from watching the outdoor channels, to the parents who have daughters dragging them to "The Hunger Games" or "Brave," archery is growing at a remarkable rate. But where should someone start when looking for a bow? The questions that probably come to mind are:

• Should I shoot "traditional" or compound? 
• Do I want to hunt or target shoot and if so, what kind of game or targets do I want to shoot at?
• Should I buy new or used? 
• Finally, what's this little venture going to cost me?

TRADITIONAL OR COMPOUND?
One of the first decisions to make, is whether to shoot a "traditional" bow, or a compound.  A "traditional" bow typically refers to a longbow or a recurve: bows that have no wheels or "pulleys" and that are truly the definition of "stick and string" (...the type of bow used in the movie "The Hunger Games"). If simplicity and tradition is what you crave, then a longbow or recurve is what you want.  If, however, you're interested in speed and increased accuracy and range, then a compound bow (...those bows that DO have wheels and "pulleys" on them) might be a better fit for you.

Traditional
With a longbow or recurve, you will only need a glove, arm guard, and some arrows. One of the benefits of choosing to shoot a traditional bow is that the initial financial investment (heck, even long-term overall investment...) can be significantly less than with compound bows.  However, shooting a traditional bow – for most people, and without a SIGNIFICANT investment in time spent practicing – typically means less overall accuracy and distance.

Length and poundage marked on the limb.

When looking for a traditional-style bow, look somewhere on either the bottom limb, or on the handle/riser, for the tip-to-tip length and draw weight. Unless you are very tall, a tip-to-tip length of 62-66" is a good place to start for most people. The draw weight of the bow is the weight measured at 28" of draw. Simply put, if your draw length is less than 28", it will be less draw weight; if greater than 28",  the draw weight will be more than is stated on the bow. You can go into your local archery shop where they can use a "draw check" arrow and bow scale to help you determine what your traditional bow is drawing at your specific draw length.

Use a draw check arrow to determine your proper draw length.

Once you've established your draw length, you then just need to hold, draw, and shoot several different types of traditional-style bows – at different draw weights – to see which one feels the best and allows you to shoot comfortably and accurately.  Everyone is different, as are different bows, so the trick is finding the bow that fits you, your shooting style, and what you want to do with it.  Those that want to shoot a traditional-style bow for target archery (like the Olympic archers) might need a different bow than someone who wants to hunt with it.


Compound
While a compound bow will ultimately require a few more accessories, you first need to determine draw length and draw weight. These differ, however, with a compound bow as opposed to traditional bows.

When determining your draw length, you first need to decide how you want to draw the bow back. For traditional archery, drawing the bow back using your fingers is the norm. With compound bows these days, however, most people use some sort of mechanical release aid. Now, while using a release aid has become the standard for a variety of reasons, you can still use fingers if you want, but you'll need to look specifically for a longer axle-to-axle bow, which can be tough these days. Axle-to-axle length is measured as the distance between the axle of the top wheel or cam to the axle of the bottom cam. For finger shooters that usually needs to be 40 inches or more. With so many compound bows becoming more compact and having shorter axle-to-axle lengths, the angle of the string as you pull back becomes so sharp, that holding and shooting accurately with fingers becomes almost impossible. A release aid not only helps most folks have a more consistent and "clean" release of the string (which helps accuracy), but it allows folks to shoot highly compact bows as well.

Proper draw length with a hand-held release

Regardless of how you wish to shoot (fingers or release), determining the correct draw length is much more important with a compound bow than a traditional bow due to the way a compound bow works. Unlike a traditional bow that simply flexes the limbs directly as you pull on one string, a compound bow uses Cams (pulleys) and/or wheels that "compound" the amount of flex the limbs receive as you pull the string back. Different Cams and wheels will "compound" the flex of the limbs differently, but all need to be set-up to your specific draw length.

As you pull back, the Cam(s) will start to roll over and compress the limbs (the difficult portion of the "draw cycle") and then "fall" into what folks call a "valley" whereby the Cams hold the majority of the weight of the compressed limbs rather than your arms. This is the "let-off" you hear people talk about when people talk about compound bows. Different Cams have different amounts or "percentages" of let-off (which is something to consider when purchasing your bow), but all Cams need to be matched to your specific draw length so that the draw cycle and "valley" are properly set to maximize speed and efficiency.  While this might seem pretty complicated at first, all you really need to do is figure out what your proper draw length is, and the archery shop employees and bow manufacturers will do the rest; it really is pretty simple.

Like with a traditional bow, the best way to determine your draw length is by using a "draw-check" arrow.  However, if you don't have a "draw-check" arrow to start with, one way to determine your draw length is to measure your wing span, finger tip-to-finger tip, then divide the measurement by 2.5. While this is only a starting point (as some bow manufacturers measure their draw length differently), it should at least get you close so you can either narrow down your initial purchase, or help archery shop employees figure out where to start.

Draw weight is the next thing to consider. The average hunting weight for most men is 63 to 65 pounds of draw weight (with a range of between 55 and 70 pounds), and 40 to 45 pounds for most women. For target archery, most choose draw weights that are much less than that. In either case, the key to finding your appropriate draw weight (especially when starting out) is being able to smoothly draw the bow all the way back without having to do much (if any) large arm movements and "gyrations" to get it back; you'll see some people struggling to get their bow back each time they draw their bow. You do NOT want to do that!

Now, don't get suckered into thinking you have to pull heavy weight to hunt.  If you can't draw the bow with ease, the animal will most likely see you draw, and spook anyway. I tell people that if after a practice session of at least 30 arrows, you can't sit flat on your butt, with your legs straight out in front of you, and draw your bow easily, you're shooting too much weight. Keep in mind that most compound bows will have a 10 pound weight adjustment, so choose a bow that will allow you to shoot lighter weight to start, and then gradually increase the weight as you get stronger.

On this Hoyt bow, you can see WT (draw weight) ranges between 60 and 70 pounds.

For instance, many bows these days come with 70 pound limbs, which means when at maximum poundage, you'll be pulling 70 pounds of weight to get the string back. Those same bows, however, usually can be turned down to about 60 pounds with a simple adjustment. If you can easily pull back 60 pounds to start, go with a 60 to 70 pound draw weight bow, and start at 60 and slowly work your way up to 70. If 60 is too heavy to start, then choose a 60 pound draw weight bow, and have the limbs "turned down" to about 50 pounds to start. With modern Cam designs and limb composites these days, even "lower poundage" bows still produce incredible speed and kinetic energy.



HUNTING OR TARGET SHOOTING?
Another thing to consider when purchasing a compound bow is, what do you want to do with it? Do you want to hunt with it, shoot targets, or both?

Generally speaking, if you want to primarily shoot at targets (paper or 3D targets) for competitions, a "Target Bow" is usually a longer axle-to-axle bow. Maybe not 40+ inches axle-to-axle like for finger shooters, but typically somewhere in the 34 to 36 inch range. The reason for this is something I like to call "Archery Geometry." With a longer axle-to-axle bow – for most shooters – the bow will "hold" and aim better than a shorter axle-to-axle bow. By the same token, many longer axle-to-axle "target" bows have a longer brace height (i.e., the distance from the inside of the grip to the string of the un-drawn bow). While a longer brace height (around 7+ inches) generally means slightly slower arrow speeds, longer brace heights make a bow a little more forgiving during the shot, and help the shooter be more accurate.

The author with his target bow that has a longer axle-to-axle length and brace height for maximized accuracy.

For hunting, folks use all sorts of axle-to-axle length and brace height bows, but even still, before settling on a bow, think about what – and where – you'll be hunting. Are you hunting from a treestand or groundblind for whitetails, hunting open country mule deer and pronghorn, up in the mountains in the timber, or all of the above? Where, and what, you'll be hunting may influence the type of bow you choose.

When hunting out of a treestand or ground blind, sometimes having a very short, compact bow can be handy, and often your shots are 40 yards and under. In these instances, a shorter axle-to-axle bow (30 to 32 inches) may be just what you want. And for whitetails, having a fast bow can definitely have its advantages, so a bow with a shorter brace height (around 6 inches) might be what you want.  However, with any "advantage" you choose, there are "disadvantages" you need to account for.

In the case of short axle-to-axle bows with short brace heights, for many people, these bows don't "hold" as steady as a longer axle-to-axle bow, and can be a bit more "finicky" and require the shooter to have very consistent and good form – and a very clean release – on every shot in order to be accurate at longer distances.  For many whitetail hunters, these "trade-offs" are within acceptable limits given that most shots are within 20 to 30 yards so "pin-point" accuracy isn't quite as important as maximizing speed to reduce the likelihood of the deer ducking the arrow when they "jump the string."

If you're hunting out west in open terrain where longer shots – possibly in the wind – are the norm, having a bow that holds steady and that's fast can be important.  In this case, a longer axle-to-axle bow that holds a little more steady for most people (like a 34 to 36 inch bow) that also has a shorter brace height may be just what you want.  If you're just starting out, and aren't sure of your form and consistency yet, a longer axle-to-axle bow that also has a longer brace height might be just the ticket to give you confidence in holding steady, and give you a little forgiveness should you be a little unsteady or slightly off in your form.

...not that a big buck or bull would make you a little shaky!  :-)

WHERE AND HOW TO BUY

Whether you're looking for a new bow or used, there are a number of places to find a bow.

If you're looking for used bows to start (which are cheaper), consider checking with your local archery shops first to see what they have in stock. If a bow is sold at an archery shop, many times the shop owners/employees will have given the bow at least a safety check to make sure there aren't any issues with it (like the previous owner having dry-fired the bow).  If you find a bow in the newspaper, on Craigslist, Ebay, or other on-line avenue, consider having the person either get the bow checked out and provide you documentation (that you can verify) that it's in good working order, or meet the person at your local archery shop to have it checked out. While there are some good deals to be had out there with used bows, just make sure you aren't buying something that has been previously damaged and possibly unsafe.

When buying used, it helps to already know your draw length and the limits of what you can safely – and easily – draw back (poundage) so you can be sure to buy a bow that will work for you.  To that end, if your budget allows, try to find a bow that is only a few years old; that cheap bow you found at a garage sale that might be 15 years old might be a good deal, but you may not be able to get it adjusted to your needs, or find any parts for it to get it back into good shooting condition!  Typically, bows that are 5 years old or less can still be adjusted to fit you, and you can still find parts.

A great way to get into a good used bow, is to find a buddy that "just has to have" the latest and greatest. This transaction works nicely, because you can usually meet him down at the range and test drive the bow before purchase!

For folks looking for a highly trusted on-line avenue in which to find and purchase a new bow, I send them the website ArcheryTalk. This is a whole site of Archery Freaks! There's a classified section complete with a "Target Bow" page, "Hunting Bow" page, "Women and Youth Bows" page, and "Everything Left-Handed" page. There are bows to fit everyone on this site. Ebay is another great place to look, but when buying used, as always, Buyer Beware!  Do your homework on the seller feedback before making a purchase. Both of these sites have a feedback section to help with this.

The next thing to know is how change the fit of the bow you're considering. Some bows have draw length modules, some have string posts, some have to change cams. Sellers may advertise that a bow is adjustable from 25-31" of draw, but this may require different modules, cams, or even strings to make the draw length change. This could be as cheap as $20 for a module, or as expensive as $250 for new cams and strings. That "deal" you found might not be as much of a "deal" if – after you purchase it – you have to fork over hundreds of dollars just to be able to shoot it!!!  Remember what I said about knowing your draw length a little earlier??? This can go a long way in helping avoid any "issues" after the sale!

If a new bow is what you'd prefer, one place to go is to the "big box" stores like Cabelas, Gander Mountain, Bass Pro Shops, Sportsmans Warehouse, etc. You will notice that most of the bows will already have accessory packages on them. This makes for a quicker sale, but may not be exactly what you want on the bow. Archery is a very personal sport, and you may want to vary the accessories on your set-up so the bow works better for you. The "big box" store will usually have a couple of higher end bows, depending on what lines the stock, but they cannot carry the "Pro Shop" only lines.

Bows like Mathews, Hoyt, Bowtech, and PSE Pro Series can only be sold in Pro Shops. Now I realize that some Pro Shops have a reputation for being snobbish, arrogant, and expensive, but they will have the best bow technicians. Like with the rest of this purchase, research your local Pro Shop and give them the opportunity to earn your business. There may be a slightly higher price at a Pro Shop, but these guys eat, sleep, and breathe archery, and often can provide a higher level of technical experience and advice than some folks at a "big box" store. A good Pro Shop will carry all price ranges of bows and accessories.


COST
So, what's all this going to cost me? A used recurve may be as little as $50. Something to really watch for with a used recurve though, are twisted limbs. I see a lot of twisted limbs when people come in for new strings. If a recurve that you're looking at seems a bit "spendy," do a little more research. It may be worth the money if it happens to be an old Fred Bear or Black Widow.

A used compound that's more than about 5 or 6 years old shouldn't run more than about $350 all set-up and ready to go. A bow that is less than 5 years old could still be worth $600-$700, if it's set-up with some top of the line accessories. When buying a used compound, assume that you'll need to replace the string and cables, and make a draw length adjustment. If, when your bow shows up, you don't need these items, then that just makes your deal that much better.

Prices on new bows will vary slightly, depending on the part of the country you live. An entry level recurve, armguard, shooting glove, 1/2 dozen carbon arrows, and field points will run about $250 in my area. Not all recurves are this cost effective. Some production recurve/longbows will go for $600-$800, and a good custom can easily cost $1,000 or more.

A new compound bow will run from $300-$1500 for just the bare bow, or $500-$2500 for a bow all set-up, ready to shoot. When I'm helping a customer with a new bow purchase, I put bows into 3 categories: 1) Entry Level bows: $300-$400, 2) Mid-Line bows: $400-$700, and 3) High-End bows: $700 and up. Pick one of these categories and try to stick with it. There is a significant difference in feel and performance by upgrading. Be careful if your budget doesn't allow for an upgrade.


FINAL THOUGHTS 
Finally, be sure to actually shoot all the bows you can get your hands on in your price range, and let the bow choose you!  While some stores/shops may try to "push"you into one bow or another, remember it's going to be your bow that you will be shooting, not them. Just because one type of bow shoots well for them, or they get a better mark-up on a particular bow does not mean it's the right bow for you. Shoot different bows within your price range, and choose the bow that fits, feels, and shoots best for you! Keep an open mind and don't let hype drive your decision.

Good luck, and if you have ANY questions - don't hesitate to contact us!!

Looking for Big Bulls in Southern Colorado - 2012 Through the Seasons Episode

Roe Hunting Resources shares a few of the highlights from the first five days of the 2012 Colorado elk hunting season in southern Colorado.  Between the inconsistent wind, the large number of cows and calves, and the numerous "satellite" bulls that were encountered, the first five days of the 2012 season ended up foreshadowing how the rest of the season was going to be for the RHR crew!  In this episode, you'll see some elk that got a little "up-close-and-personal," hear some great calf vocalizations, and check out a few nice southern Colorado bulls.

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We take you into the field as we put what we teach into action. Whether it's spring turkey, late-summer pronghorn, fall elk and deer, or winter waterfowl, this new series takes you - in an entertaining yet educational manner - along on our most memorable hunts... Through the Seasons!

Episodes are available either at www.RoeHuntingResources.com or www.YouTube.com/RoeHuntingResources

2013 ATA Products - Spot Hogg and GlowPeep

Ok, I'm going to cover these two products together ONLY because they both try to address the same issue (...an issue I covered in one of our Sweet Feeds) from two different directions - one from the "sight" side of the equation, the other from the "peep" side.

Back in September of last year, I posted a Sweet Feed regarding the importance of practicing both "high" light and "low" light situations, because differences in ambient light conditions can affect your perception of your peep, which can affect your sighting/aiming, and ultimately your downrange accuracy.  To refresh your memory on what I said in the Sweet Feed, check it out again here:

Well, the folks at Spot Hogg (makers of some of the best bow sights on the market) and a new company - GlowPeep - have also been thinking of this issue, and came up with products this year in an attempt to help folks overcome the "high" light/"low" light issue. Spot Hogg has introduced their "Spark" series of sights/lighted aiming reticles for 2013, and while a large part of the new sight is the lighted reticle that can go from non-lighted, to dimly lit, to brightly lit with the adjustable rheostat, what caught my eye were the brightly colored rings on the face of the site.

To be honest, my first reaction - and I told them this at the booth - was an incredulous, "what the heck is that????" It looked gaudy.  It kinda looked ridiculous.  But after talking with them for a few minutes, my skepticism quickly changed to curiosity.  The point behind the bright, contrasting rings is to give the shooter multiple "circles" on which to center your peep when lighting conditions change. When the level of ambient light changes, your eye perceives your peep sight opening differently, so in some light conditions, you perceive a larger opening, and in others, a smaller opening.  Changes in that perceived size can make it difficult to center a single "ring" (read here, your bow sight housing) effectively.  In some lighting conditions, you can clearly see both the peep sight opening "ring" and the sight housing "ring," and line the two up to ensure a proper sight picture.  However, in other light conditions, you may not be able to perceive those two "rings" clearly, thus making lining the two up a bit more difficult - if not downright impossible. Sound familiar?

Well, Spot Hogg has developed the "contrasting rings on the sight housing" concept to provide multiple rings on the sight housing so that as lighting conditions change, and your perceived peep sight opening changes, you have different rings to choose from to ensure you can still line up your sight properly.  While it may look "weird" or gaudy at first glance, the idea behind the function of the rings makes sense  In my mind, it may be very similar to how some people think ASAT and Predator Camos look terrible hanging on the rack, but their performance in the field is unmatched! If it works, could "multiple brightly colored rings on bow sight housings" become standard features on all sights in the future?  Who knows.  But we shouldn't overlook the fact that Spot Hogg was one of the first sight manufacturers to develop the "circular" pin housing to assist in aiming, and look where that's gone; just try to find a non-circular pin housing these days!  Hmmm...

GlowPeep has taken a different approach to the same issue.  For their product, they've come up with a way to make the peep sight more visible in low light conditions, so you can see the peep sight opening "ring" more clearly in low light, so you can then center your sight housing more effectively.

For their product, it's simply a Fletcher Tru-Peep, anodized and coated with a glow-in-the-dark coating.  Period.  In low light, you can take a tiny pen light or flashlight, give it a two-minute "charge," and the peep with glow for up to 12 hours.  Because the initial "glow" is quite bright to your eye in low light conditions, they recommend letting the glow "settle down" a little bit (five to 10 minutes) and stabilize into a faint green or pink (depending on the color you choose) glow.  In daylight hours, it's nothing more than a normal (albeit colorful) peep sight.  It's pretty simple.

Do either of these products work?  Well, both of course, say yes, and both claim to have tested their products and are confident that folks will clearly see the difference and improvement in their shooting.  While I hope to put both to the test, give them a try at your local archery shop later this year.  Like all products, some things work for some folks, and some things don't work for others.  If either, or both, of these work for you, then you might be seeing significant low light shooting success in the future - whether at the range, or in the field.  ...and that's something all of us could benefit from!

2013 ATA Products - Nature Blinds

The Nature Blind

Hunting from a ground blind can be one of the most effective ways to hunt, but - depending on the critter you're going after - camouflaging your blind can sometimes be a problem.  While effective camo patterns on the blinds themselves can help, often times for maximum effectiveness we're forced to "brush in" our blinds to keep animals from detecting them and our set-ups; unnatural shapes or "objects" often draw unwanted attention to our blinds, and cause animals to either avoid areas altogether, or simply maintain a safe distance around the blind - often just out of range.  The more "natural" a blind looks, the less likely it is that the animals we're targeting are going to detect our blind and avoid it.

Well... check THIS baby out!!!!  Nature Blinds has taken "realism" to a whole new level!!!!

Nature Blinds are molded from high density "foam", using the same material and process that amusement parks and museums use to make their habitats and realistic "sets." They don't just make a realistic "looking" tree stump, they MAKE a tree stump!!!

This thing was awesome!  Big enough for two people to sit in, waterproof, nearly sound-proof, and extremely scent-reducing, with silent-slide windows that raise and lower with an ingenious "rope and magnet" system that make raising and lower the windows completely silent.  The realism was incredible, and the durability/toughness was unbelievable.  For those that like to video their hunts, they make a "video" version "upgrade" that doubles the number of shooting windows so a camera and hunter can be looking in the same direction, as well as a wheel-chair accessible version if you need!!!

Weighing in at about 300 pounds, it's not something you'll be carting around on your back (although I did joke with them that they needed to incorporate some shoulder straps!), however, it is fairly easy to rock up onto its side to pull a trailer up to and load up. 

How much does it cost you ask?  A mere $3,995.  :-0

I know, I know... that burst my bubble as well.  But, really - when you think about it - it makes sense.  This isn't even REMOTELY close to what other blinds are (it blows them AWAY with the realism and features), so we have to expect that the price will be a bit higher.

It's expensive, but it IS pretty darn cool!!!!  If you want to check out their website, check them out at:

http://natureblinds.com/

Part Two of QDMA's Deer Aging Tutorial

In Part Two of the QDMA's three-part video series on aging white-tailed deer using the "tooth replacement and wear" technique, Brian Murphy goes over the difference between a deer's tooth enamel and dentine, and how to evaluate it in order to get an idea as to a deer's age.

Now, there are some biologists that feel that "tooth wear" is NOT a reliable way to ascertain a deer's age, citing the fact that - depending on the habitat(s) the deer is/are in - there can be differences in the "hardness" of forage deer might eat, and thus a difference in the amount of tooth wear one deer might have vs. another of the same age, in a different habitat, eating different forage(s), etc., but...  While that is ABSOLUTELY true, for most of us, the tooth replacement and wear aging technique is a fairly reliable methodology to determine age - especially if you're simply evaluating the deer from your area and hunting grounds, and not necessarily deer from vastly different regions. 

With a little practice, and by evaluating different age-classes of deer from your hunting area, you can quickly get an idea of the age of that buck, or that doe, you harvested, and have a vital piece of information regarding the age-classes of animals you're harvesting during your hunting efforts.  Whether for legitimate management purposes, or just for fun, this video will show you how to age a whitetail by looking at its tooth wear.

Part One of QDMA's Deer Aging Tutorial

If you're a whitetail hunter, chances are you've heard of the term "Quality Deer Management" or "QDM" for short.  While tens - if not hundreds - of thousands of landowners, lease holders, hunt clubs, etc. have joined the QDM "revolution", there are some that believe that their property is "too small", or that they "can't practice" QDM on their properties, or on the properties where they hunt.  While some of the broader habitat projects, food plots, careful harvest management, etc. might not be possible (and I emphasize might), there are still things the average hunter can participate in that many consider "QDM-type" activities.  One of those is aging the deer you harvest.

Even if you aren't engaging in a comprehensive QDM program, knowing how old the deer is that you shot can be interesting information to have.  Whether just for fun and interesting conversation around the campfire, or simply to help you confirm that "mature" buck or doe you harvested was - indeed - mature (and if so, just how mature), knowing how to age your animals can be good to know.

The attached video is Part One of a three-part series the Quality Deer Management Association is putting together to share with folks the techniques - and art - to aging whitetails by evaluating the animal's teeth in its lower jaw.  If you're interested in learning how to age a whitetail, I'll share the videos as they get posted.  If you're interested in knowing more about QDM, I strongly encourage you to become a QDMA member!  I have been a member for more than 10 years, and am still learning new whitetail science, habitat management techniques, and more with each issue of Quality Whitetails (their quarterly publication) that I receive.  For you small acreage owners, you might be surprised at just what you can do on your property (or those that you hunt) that you never thought you could, or ever thought that would work!

Check out the QDMA, and check out the video:

Winter Conditions and Your High Country Deer or Elk Hunt - Part 3 of 3

At the time I posted the second article in this series, deer and elk had already converged on the alpine and their traditional summer areas, WAY ahead of schedule. Like I mentioned, this year–for many of us–is far from normal, with a good portion of this “abnormality” being the direct result of last winter’s snowpack–or more precisely, the lack thereof. In this article, I'll discuss how the previous winter can affect summer conditions and forage availability (and ultimately deer and elk activity and habitat use), and then I'll take a look at how this summer has progressed and will identify a few points you should consider when scouting and planning for your upcoming high country hunt.

Snowpack and Summer Forage Availability

In order for deer and elk to maximize their body condition, lactation, antler development, etc. during the summer, they need ample, high quality forage. In order for there to be ample, high quality forage, the plants they select to make up that "forage" must have warm sunny days, and plenty of water in order to maximize their production. Generally, insufficient water (aka soil moisture) equals insufficient forage (either in quality, quantity, or both) which leads to deer and elk either not reaching their full potential–OR–them moving to an area that DOES have sufficient–or at least better–forage quality and/or availability.

For this conversation, it’s not hard to wrap our heads around the fact that, in general, the more snow on the mountain you have going INTO summer, the more water/soil moisture you’ll have DURING the summer (at least early on), which should result in more, and higher quality, forage for deer and elk. Unfortunately, however, that’s not the complete picture. Snow/water equivalent (i.e. how much water is in the snow), and how fast the snow melts are two other very important factors to consider when trying to “predict” what summer conditions (at least early- to mid-summer conditions) are likely to be.

The relative Snow Water Equivalent for the central Rockies on June 1, 2011 and 2012. While at first glance it may not seem like too much of a difference, note that the legend shows subtle color changes for significant differences, and then look to see just how different these two years were. Images like these can be found at: http://www.nohrsc.noaa.gov/nsa/index.html?region=Central_Rockies&year=2011&month=8&day=1&units=e

In many areas, the winter of 2010-2011 was a long one. But, what's important about that–beyond what we talked about in the previous articles–was the snow/water equivalent and the rate in which the snow melted. In many areas, the snow was fairly “wet” (i.e., it contained a great deal of moisture). For every unit of snow that melted, a significant amount of water was released into the surrounding environment. Because most areas saw the snowpack melt rather slowly, much of the water that was released was able to soak straight into the ground, and the prolonged duration of that process allowed a good amount of that moisture to sink deep into the soil structure of the mountainside. …lots of water, deep into the soil structure, meant PLENTY of water available for plants to use over a prolonged period once the warm rays of the summer sun cranked up the engine of production! While some areas saw all that happen “late,” once things did start cranking, the amount of forage production was incredible.

What a difference a year can make; a look at the same slopes (at slightly different angles) during the same week of July in 2011 (left) and 2012 (right). In 2011, too much snow kept deer and elk out until early to mid-August. In 2012, lack of moisture has the entire basin so dry that very little high quality forage is available for deer and elk that want to utilize the area; the brown slopes and ridges aren’t dirt and rock–they’re simply covered with brown, dead/dormant grass and alpine tundra that in normal years should be a blanket of bright green.

Contrast that with 2012. For most of areas, there was significantly less snow than “normal,” and in many areas, the snow that did fall was relatively “dry” (i.e., the snow/water equivalent was low), so there wasn’t a lot of moisture in each unit of snow that we had. Compound that with the fact that it was an abnormally warm spring that melted most of our snowpack in a matter of days and weeks, rather than weeks and months, and most of us were left with mountains that were “high and dry” well before “normal.” ...little moisture to begin with and a rapid runoff that doesn’t allow much time for a deep soaking, and you end up with very little soil moisture available for plants. Continue into a warm and dry period, and you end up with a scenario where the cool-season plants exhaust most–if not all–of the available soil moisture in short order, leaving very little for use later on.

What do I mean by “cool-season” plants? Without going into an in-depth botany lesson, some plants are adapted to grow during cooler weather, and when water is more plentiful, and go dormant or “die off” when temperatures get warm and water becomes a little more scarce. Often, these plants are the first ones to “green-up” in the spring, but turn “brown” when the summer heat picks up and/or the soil dries out. While most will green back up if adequate moisture becomes available, they “flower” and do the bulk of their growing in late-spring and early summer. Most high country plants are cool-season species.

Cool-season grasses and forbs stay green and growing so long as soil moisture stays adequate. Taken in mid-June 2012, initial forage quality and quantity in this area was looking good, but with several more weeks of summer to go, how long things would stay green was anybody’s guess.

Because of their growth characteristics, in years like this where initial soil moisture conditions start out relatively dry, many cool-season plants will undergo a somewhat “accelerated” growth and development. In other words, they’ll “green-up” but put up minimal “vegetative” growth, and almost immediately flower and go to seed. Essentially they respond to dry–or drying–conditions by accelerating their entire growth cycle. Once they go to seed, unless they continue to have adequate moisture to their roots, they go dormant, turn brown, and dry up. While deer and elk can definitely capitalize on the early growth, subsequent mid- and late-season growth is wholly dependent upon adequate soil moisture, and on whether or not the level of moisture is suitable for the needs of the plants that the animals are interested in. No moisture, no growth. No growth often means few to no animals in that area...

Sponge Mountain

Forgetting about summer rain for a minute, in years where snowpack is limited, and we want to try and anticipate where animals might go in order to find the highest quality, and quantity, of forage available, think of whatever mountain range you hunt as a giant “triangular” sponge sitting on your back deck in the sun. …start out with the sponge wet, but fully “wrung out.”

If you take a pitcher of water, and slowly pour water over the top of the “peak” of the sponge, you’d probably see most of the water soak in and saturate it. This isn’t unlike what happens when heavy, wet snowpack starts to melt. As the sponge become saturated, however, water is going to start leaking out of the bottom, and start flowing over the sides as you continue to pour. Your “mountain” is fully saturated.

But if we started with the same sponge, and only poured a little water over the top, and stopped short of having water run out the bottom and over the sides (like what you might experience during a light, dry snowpack and associated runoff like many of us saw this year), we’d probably see most of the water soak in and stay suspended inside the sponge…at least initially. Over time, and especially after sitting in the sun for a while, we’d likely see two things; the top and outside edges of the sponge starting to dry out and get hard (crispy), and water starting to leak out the bottom. In this case, both gravity and solar radiation are working on the water we poured in–one pulling it down and out of the sponge, and one evaporating any moisture off of the surface that it can.

Although a real mountain has vegetation sucking water out of it, and animals drinking from it, what you see in your “sponge mountain” is what you see on the mountain you hunt. The sun–in conjunction with photosynthesis and evapotranspiration–works on pulling water off the top and “surface” areas, while gravity constantly pulls water downhill. While different soil structures and plant communities can affect the rate at which this happens, it nevertheless happens.

Unfortunately, the tops and “edges” are what typically dry out first; for those hunting the high country, that usually means the very areas you want to hunt. If your area receives regular bouts of summer rains, then the “pitcher” keeps adding water to the top, vegetation continues to grow, and animals have lush, high quality forage to enjoy. If it doesn’t, then the top starts to dry out, vegetative growth slows down or stops altogether, and deer and elk head out in search of “wetter” areas. Where is that? …again, think about your sponge.

Even when the top and outside edges start drying out, the bottom usually stays wet. If we were to cut a slit deep into the side of the sponge, we’d probably see the interior is still fairly wet as well. Same thing goes for a mountain. When the high country starts to dry out, often lower elevation areas hold water a little longer, as do some of the drainages, swales, low spots, “cuts,” etc. that are scattered across the terrain. Put those things on the “shady” “cool” side of the mountain (north and northeast faces), and they’ll hold water even longer.

The results of no snowpack this past spring, and a lack of summer moisture during the summer. Brown areas are actually dead/dormant grass, not dirt and rock. In “normal” years, this entire mountain is a blanket of deep green similar to the areas you can see in the bottoms of the “swales” next to the willows where the last remaining soil moisture on this particular part of the mountain can be found.

Another example of the “sponge” drying out from the top; note the “brown” grassy slopes up high, and the “brighter green” areas in and around the willows toward the bottom of the picture. Being south facing, this entire basin was quickly drying out from a lack of spring snowpack and no rain. Not a single animal was seen in this basin after glassing for several hours after daybreak; in “normal” years, elk can be found in all areas of this photo.

Again, more moisture often equals higher quality and quantity of forage, so if the high country starts drying out, it doesn’t take many animals long to “pour down the mountain”–just like the water–and seek out those pockets of “greener pastures.” When faced with low winter snowpack, it is often a good idea to investigate lower-elevation areas–especially those on the north and northeast facing slopes–in order to find the small swales, benches, pockets, and “cuts” that might hold moisture a little longer into the summer months. By holding those areas as a “Plan B,” you can often save your hunt should your high country areas–and the animals you find there–turn out to be, shall-we-say, “less than remarkable.” If you don’t find animals, or just not the quality of animals you’re looking for in the high country after a dry spring and initial start to summer, think about going lower, or around the mountain to the north and northeast facing bowls and basins.

This group of cows and calves (that were a part of a group of about 40 animals) were found nearly 2,000 feet lower than “normal” at this time of year in one of several meadows that had a little higher soil moisture, and better forage quality and quantity, than areas higher on the mountain.

Summer Rains

In the previous sentence, I said “initial start summer.” While initial conditions aren’t necessarily what they’ll be like later on depending on summer rains, initial conditions often set the stage for how things will progress throughout the summer into early fall. This is where understanding your individual area, and careful monitoring of your area throughout the summer comes in. In some cases, ample summer moisture can “make up” for a low snowpack; cool-season grasses go through their initial growth cycle in spring, but then continue to grow and stay green as summer rains keep soil moisture high enough for them to take advantage of it. In other areas, and depending on the timing and amount of the summer moisture, the initial “damage done” by the lack of adequate snowpack can last through the entire season.

For many of us across the Rocky Mountains, our summer rains depend upon the monsoonal flow of moisture coming out of the Gulf of Mexico. Without the monsoon flow, we see very little summer moisture. With it, SOME of us see plenty of moisture. The problem with the monsoons, is that the moisture often comes in the form of thunderstorms and pockets of rain, as opposed to large blankets of rain showers and overall rainy weather. While one mountain or ridgeline may see multiple inches of rain in a matter of days, an adjacent mountain or ridge may see nothing more than a trace.

A screen shot of the NOAA’s website, and the base reflectivity radar image of the western United States from July 24th, 2012, at 5:13pm. Notice how some areas are getting good rain, but other areas are completely missed–typical for the monsoon flow and late summer rainstorms. You can check daily images like these at: http://radar.weather.gov/radar.php?rid=ftg&product=N0R&overlay=11101111&loop=no

This is again where initial conditions from last winter’s snowpack become important. In years where you have ample–or even average–snowpack, any rain received in the summer, whether a little or a lot, can provide a boost to the vegetation growing in the high country. This can help maintain high quality and quantity of forage. In years with below-average snowpack, however, sometimes the only areas to see any vegetative recovery are those areas that receive a LOT of summer rain. Again, cool-season plants will “green-up” again in the presence of ample moisture, but unless there is enough moisture, they can’t crawl out of the proverbial “hole” that the lack of initial snowpack dug them into.

This is where careful, and focused, monitoring of your hunting area comes in. While putting “boots on the ground” is often best, at the very least, regularly monitor local weather stations, or the NOAA website and their radar data, to follow what’s going on in your area. Is your high country unit, or even just the mountain–and basin–you want to hunt, getting any rain? If so, how much? How often? Just because the “area” is getting rain, is your ridge? Remember, deer and elk will readily seek out greener pastures; repeated rain on an adjacent ridge, or in an adjacent basin, can kick the production of cool-season grasses and forbs over there back into high gear, and pull the animal(s) across entire mountain sides. If you’re hunting on the edge of a draw unit, “your” animals may completely leave your unit if summer rains pound the adjacent unit, but leave yours high and dry!

I purposefully held off on writing this article for a little while this summer once I saw we were entering into an “early” monsoon season–I wanted to see how things were going to progress. As it looks like the monsoon flow is going to be sticking around–at least for now–keep these things in mind as you continue (or if you’re like me, start…) your summer/pre-season scouting:

• Beyond normal “behavioral” and “seasonal” movements, where you found animals earlier this summer may not be where they are now depending on the rain your area has–or hasn’t–received.
• Continued dry conditions in your area may cause animals to move out of the areas they were in previous years, or even earlier in the summer, in search of literally “greener pastures.” Identify those potential areas–those “greener pastures”–and look there if the animal(s) you found earlier in the season seem(s) to have disappeared on you.
• Lots of summer rain in a localized area can overcome a dry spring, and can pull animals into it due to the resulting “bump” in forage quality and quantity.
• A little rain in your area may create a temporary spike in soil moisture, but dry soils beneath the surface may pull the moisture down and disperse it. You might see a temporary spike in vegetation quality/quantity, but don’t dismiss the lower elevation “Plan B” areas–deer and elk may head right back there after things start drying out again.
• For you high country deer hunters, willows prefer moderate to high moisture areas. With adequate soil moisture, they’ll have good growth, and will be highly palatable and of high quality. In dry conditions, not so much; they’ll still be “good,” but they may not be great. Look for willows in avalanche chutes, low spots, north/northeast bowls/drainages, and other potentially “wet” areas to find the higher quality willow patches. Find those, and you’ll likely find the deer–and likely the higher quality animals.
• Beyond vegetation issues, little to no rain can leave areas dry, focusing animals into tighter areas adjacent to any remaining water. Find the water and you'll find the animals–especially you elk hunters!
• Lots of rain over an extended period can start springs flowing again and can fill every bog, puddle, wallow, etc. This will allow animals to scatter across the landscape. If you focused on “pockets” of water early (and set game cameras, tree-stands, blinds, etc.), you might need to expand your scouting if your area gets a lot of rain.

About the Author:
Chris Roe is a Certified Wildlife Biologist, behavioral ecologist, an elk behavior and vocalization specialist, and a passionate elk hunter based out of north-central Colorado. Chris operates Roe Hunting Resources where he offers advanced online educational resources for hunters interested in learning more about the animals they’re after. Concepts discussed in this article and many others can be found in Roe Hunting Resources’ Elk Module, or in The Elk Hunter's Strategy App available through the App Store or the Android Market.

Understanding Mule Deer Habitat

Habitat, habitat, habitat!  How many times have you heard about “habitat” with regard to Mule deer?  Probably once or twice I reckon!  But in all seriousness, how often do we talk about habitat from a hunter’s perspective? How often do we consider what we need to be thinking about while we’re out scouting and hunting? How do we take “habitat” from a general sense, and make it a practical—and beneficial component of our scouting and hunting efforts? In this article, I’ll share some of my thoughts as a “hunter/habitat” guy.

First things first: Are we talking high country muleys above timberline, brush country bucks in lower, drier elevations, or something in between? While there are generalities across each of those areas that are somewhat universal, they all have their specific habitat components that are sufficiently different enough from one another especially within the context of maximizing our success in the field. Therefore, I'll talk about them separately.

The Generalities:

All things being equal, the more diverse the habitat is, and the “younger” the habitat is, the better it is for mule deer. While mule deer generally prefer more “open” habitats, diversity is the key. Meaning, if you find areas that have a lot of different plant types in it, those plants are of different heights, they’re patchy, and many to most of the plant types are “young” with vigorous growth, the more deer you’ll likely find. When you hear land managers, habitat managers, and biologists talking about “edge effect,” or “patchiness,” or “knocking back succession” with regard to habitat, that’s what they mean. Those folks are trying to increase the quality of food, the quantity of food, and the spaces and places within which deer and other critters can live, hide, and eat.

A Fecon head in action as it chews through trees and brush to open up pinion-juniper and sagebrush to create edge, patchiness, and improve overall habitat quality and diversity on the Battlement Mesa Habitat Improvement Project.

These “generalities” hold true when trying to find the places that hold either the highest numbers of deer, or hold deer most consistently from year to year. Now, obviously hunting pressure, natural predators, human disturbance, and seasonal changes like the rut can all affect where mule deer can be found from time to time (and that’s especially true for big bucks), but when allowed to follow their natural preferences, muleys will seek out the best habitat within the region they reside.; Knowing that comes in quite handy as we move into the specifics of different regions…

Tips for Evaluating High Country Habitats:

If you’re a big high country mule deer fan, you probably know that sub-alpine willows are a huge component of a muley’s diet in the high country.; If you’re not, well…now you do. But what do we need to know about willows up in the alpine?

Classic high country mule deer habitat.  Note the short, sub-alpine willows below the rocks and along the bottom of the basin; these are the areas to look for big high country bucks!

First, not all willows are created equal. Although deer like most willow species, the ones that attract the most deer, the most consistently, are those willows that are generally below the top of their head and which have the most new growth on them.

When you look across an alpine basin, take note of the type of willows. Are they taller willows, up against the creek drainages and river bottoms, or are they short clumps of willows scattered across the basin? The willows along the creek bottoms and drainages can be good food for deer, but only if the deer can reach the tips of the branches where the best forage quality is. Often, more muleys are found scattered out in the clumps of short willows (sub-alpine willow) found in the more “upland” areas of the basin, rather than along drainage bottoms.

But even sub-alpine willows aren’t all created equal. Look to see if there are any places where willows are growing in or along avalanche chutes. Often, these willows get pummeled by snow and rocks on an annual basis, resulting in portions of the shrub breaking off, which stimulates the plant to send up new shoots to replace the broken pieces. These new shoots are younger and hence of higher quality than other parts of the plant, and even other willows in the surrounding area. So, many times you’ll find muleys camped out in these willows.

As I said earlier, the more diversity the habitat has in the way of structure and age class, the more likely it is that you’ll find deer—the high county is no different. When looking at an alpine basin, the areas that have the most “patchiness” and the greater variety of plants, will be the areas that are more likely to hold deer. So…if you find an alpine basin that has:

• Good amounts of sub-alpine willow in it;
• The willows are roughly three feet tall or shorter;
• The willows are patchy and scattered in clumps across the basin;
• The patches include small clumps of pine trees, alpine tundra, and grasses; and
• The patches of vegetation are broken up by rock outcrops and avalanche chutes

be sure to spend some time behind your optics!!!! These areas are prime areas for muleys–especially big bucks!

My 2011 high country muley. The buck was found with three others in a basin full of sub-alpine willow, rock outcrops, avalanche chutes, and small clumps of trees. You can watch the exciting hunt at www.roehuntingresources.com.

Oh, and if you find large numbers of elk in the basin on a regular basis—especially if they’re routinely scattered throughout the willows—keep looking. In most cases, mule deer will avoid areas that are heavily used by elk. Look for muleys in the steep avalanche chutes adjacent to the basins with elk in them, in nearby basins, or… look for muleys to show up once the elk have moved out of the area. Sometimes this can be early in the summer as the elk move from their calving areas to their summer areas and are just passing through a particular alpine basin. Other times it’s in September after the elk have left the high country and drop down into the timber and lower elevation areas.

Tips for Evaluating Lower Elevation Habitats:

When talking about “lower elevation habitats,” we could cover everything from Ponderosa Pine and Aspen forests, to Pinion-Juniper/Sagebrush flats, to Pine and Oak brush areas, to hills covered with Mountain Mahogany and Bitterbrush. How in the world do we wrap our mind around all those areas without writing a book on each of them? Well…in two ways:

1. By focusing on three little words, “Find the Water”; and
2. By really embracing the “generalities” I talked about earlier in this article.

A classic example of “low-elevation” mule deer habitat. Note the diversity of vegetation and structure in this picture; plenty of food, hiding cover, and escape cover for muleys that want to grow big and old!

Find the Water!

In many low elevation habitats, water is the key. Find the water, and—all other things being equal—you’ll find the deer…as well as every other wildlife critter in the region! In some areas, this could mean focusing on the areas along prominent rivers and streams that have water flowing in them year-round. In other areas, it means trying to find the tiny, isolated pockets of water that might come in the form of a tiny seep on the side of a canyon, or a sheltered pocket in dry creek bed that happens to still have water in it from that last storm or could be from the spring run-off. Wherever it might be, when you’re in lower elevation, drier habitats, water is often the key to finding deer.

When scanning the landscape trying to find these pockets of water, look for subtle differences in the color and varying height of the vegetation. Often, areas that have water nearby look slightly brighter green or will have taller vegetation than the surrounding vegetation. If you’re in cattle country, don’t overlook stock ponds, and stock tanks. Water is water in many areas, regardless if it’s from a natural source or a man-made one!

I snapped this picture right before dark as these two bucks, and several others, made their way down to water in some highly diverse, highly productive low-elevation habitat.

Embrace the Generalities!

Once you’ve found the water, the next step is to start trying to piece together as many pieces of the “general” habitat considerations as you can. Start trying to find the most “diverse” areas near water. Look for areas that have the best young or “new” growth on the shrubs and other plants that are somewhat near water. Again—all things being equal—these areas will hold more deer than areas with little to no diversity and that have “older” plants and shrubs with little to no “new” growth, or all of the new growth is too high for the deer to reach.

In low elevation areas, there are a couple of shrubs in particular you should keep an eye out for.

• In “wetter” areas (those areas along creeks, streams, and shady “wet” areas), chokecherry and Rocky Mountain maple are important shrubs that deer will often seek out.
• In “drier” areas, mountain mahogany and bitterbrush are two important, and highly preferred, deer forages that can be found in a variety of elevations, and that are great for deer year-round.
• Lastly, for hunters hunting during the late seasons, when deer are on their winter ranges, sagebrush can be an important winter forage for deer.

With all of these shrubs, diversity of habitat and water are still the key, but if you can find these mixed in along with everything else, the odds of finding deer will go way up!

Chokecherry during early summer. Berries turn dark purplish-black in fall. Inset shows leaf detail and the two “bumps” at the base of leaf used to identify chokecherry from similar shrubs.

Rocky Mountain Maple

Mature mountain mahogany. Shrubs of this size may have slightly reduced food quality for deer to a certain extent, but are beneficial for providing hiding cover as well as escape cover.

Bitterbrush mixed in with Ponderosa Pine. Inset shows leaf detail.

About the Author:
Chris Roe is a Certified Wildlife Biologist, behavioral ecologist, a wildlife behavior and vocalization specialist, and a passionate deer, elk and turkey hunter based out of north-central Colorado. Chris operates Roe Hunting Resources where he offers advanced online educational resources for hunters interested in learning more about the animals they’re after. Concepts discussed in this article and many others can be found in Roe Hunting Resources’ Elk Module, Deer Module, Turkey Module or Annual Subscriptions. If you are interested in tips and tricks for bowhunting for elk this fall, check out our Elk Hunter's Strategy App available through the App Store or the Android Market.

Comprehensive Bow Cleaning and Maintenance - Refurbishing the Bow You Already Have

By Kurt Geist

Every year we look at our hunting set-ups and decide what we need to do get ready for next season.  New arrows, new sight, new rest, new set of strings, or maybe a whole new bow. Something that tends to gets overlooked is just a good ol' cleaning and maintenance inspection! Now, it’s not as easy as running to the car wash and giving the old girl a turbo wash. While a thorough cleaning isn’t hard to do, if you don’t have a good bow press and a very good working knowledge of how to tear a bow apart, take your bow to your local Pro Shop for this service. Typically running about $65 at most bow shops, the money spent is WELL worth it!

First off, the obvious maintenance: start with the string, and work your way to your accessories and then the bow itself. On the string, check your d-loop for wear, and check the string around the peep. If you use a peep with tubing, change the tubing. Look below the center serving for wear, especially if you hit your arm. Check all the serving for separation and/or breakage. Do you need a new string? If your string and cables are in good shape, wax them making sure to heat the wax up by rubbing quickly between your thumb and forefinger. Next, check your accessories.

Often times the decision on whether or not to upgrade your accessories is usually due to something failing you last year, or that outright broke during your last hunt. If that’s the case, don’t necessarily replace it with the same thing; if it failed once, you have to ask yourself, "Will another one of the same thing fail me again???"  Be critical. Get out and beat the bushes to see what other hunters and shooters like, and why. Places to get this information are the archery range and the Pro Shop. A word of caution: while checking out new accessories can be highly beneficial, make sure whatever you look at is of good to high quality, and not just a “shiny new penny” that will leave you in a bind later on down the road!

Once you’ve gone through your accessories—both checking them for physical problems as well as giving them a thorough cleaning—start taking a careful look at your bow itself, and consider tearing it down to it’s basic components for a complete inspection, and thorough cleaning as well.  Again, if you don’t have a quality bow press that will allow you to take the limbs off, or don’t have the confidence or knowledge to do a tear-down safely and/or properly, take your bow to a reputable bow shop and have them do this next part for you.

To demonstrate what I do for a complete cleaning, Chris let me use his WELL-worn PSE X-Force—a bow that was in SERIOUS need of a good cleaning, and maintenance inspection! I have 10 years experience working in the busiest Pro Shop in Colorado and have a bow press in my garage.  Again, if you don’t have the knowledge or proper tools to do this, take your bow to a good Pro Shop for this service or you may be getting a new bow this year after all.

Before I begin, let me start off by saying that often times I hear folks saying that they’re leery of this kind of tear-down, worried they won’t get that old “mojo” back. While that fear can be understandable, especially if you’ve never done a complete cleaning and maintenance tear-down before, keep this in mind: I know several top Pro archers that will completely tear their bows down in the motel room the night before a major tournament, just to make sure everything is good-to-go before they have to head out and perform at their absolute best. A good set-up can almost always be duplicated, and usually for the better; if you’re “mojo” is good now, the “new” mojo might even be better! If you do this now, you will have months before the hunting season, giving yourself plenty of time to adjust to the new improvements, IF you need any adjustments at all.

If you haven’t already done so, begin by taking all the accessories off the bow. Take notes if you need to so things go back together correctly. By pulling your accessories, you can clean each piece more thoroughly, as well as break loose any rusted bolts. By waxing the threads of the mounting screws, it will combat both rusted bolts and loose bolts on your bow. Wipe down all accessories and set aside until it’s time to put your bow back together.

Next, you will remove the string and cables, back out the limb bolts, and remove the limbs from the riser. Disassemble the limb and limb pocket. This is the only way to get in there and remove dirt, grit, weeds, and other crud that collect in the limb pocket. Because this is the only area that uses grease, it WILL be dirty.

The cams/idler wheel assembly is next. IMPORTANT: Pay close attention to how the spacers are installed, so they go back the same way!!! I will wipe down the axle with a light oil, but will always wipe it clean with a towel. Oil will collect dirt and dust that will keep cams from rolling over smoothly. If anything looks bent, cracked, loose, or otherwise “not-quite-right” in any way, replace the part with a new one; these parts are critical for the performance—and safety—of your bow, so make sure these items are in top condition before putting everything back together.

After a close inspection of all parts to ensure everything is in tip-top shape, it’s time to put things back together (Note: extra parts are a BAD thing!). Apply a small amount of grease to the threads of the limb bolts. This will ensure a nice smooth rotation for draw weight adjustments. Some limb pockets will also require a small amount of grease. Reassemble cams/idler wheel, again, paying close attention to the spacers on either side of the cam. Check the e-clips as they go back on to be sure of proper fit. When in doubt, replace with new clips; new e-clips will only cost pennies.

Once the limbs and cams are attached to the riser, take a clean rag and wipe down the whole bow. None of this will do any good if the first trip out, you clog everything up because of excess oil and grease. Re-install the string and cables, and re-time the cams. Sight, rest, quiver, and stabilizer finish out the reassembly. Before you draw the bow, go over everything one more time to be sure you did it right.

You are now ready to tune your “new” bow. Depending on how long you have neglected this cleaning, you very well may find that you’re “old friend” feels like a brand new bow!!! All that’s left now, is to ensure a proper tune, and you’re back in action. Consider giving your bow a thorough cleaning and maintenance inspection today; a little TLC today, might be the difference between success and disappointment tomorrow!

About the Author:  Kurt grew up hunting and fishing, and began his love for archery in 1999. While his first bow was bought for hunting, he quickly realized how beneficial target archery was to his hunting skills, and just how fun it could be.  In short order that "fun" turned into a passion. Since then, he has won tournaments at the local, State, and National level, including the World Archery Festival in Las Vegas, Big Sky Open, six consecutive State Target Championships and five State 3D Championships.  Kurt hunts exclusively with archery equipment, and has harvested everything from small game to bighorn sheep.  He is currently the President of the Rocky Mountain Archery Association and travels around Colorado giving archery lessons and tuning seminars. Working part-time at one of Colorado's busiest archery shops keeps him abreast of all the latest archery technologies. Kurt currently makes his home in Colorado Springs, Colorado.